Lost in Translation

Throughout our stay in Japan I besiged (sp?) my fellow Chiba-ites with movie references. Which is why I find it fitting to end our experience with one last one.

I never got the title Lost in Translation. Didn't give much thought to it really. But as I start to decompress and reflect back on the entire experience think I get it and will attempt to explain.

The primary goal of the JFMF program is to share the culture of Japan with American educators, but in my mind it is also kind of a social experiment. Take a group of 200 people, drop them in a foreign land, provide them with enough structure to give them some purpose and ability to function, then sit back and watch.

Very quickly small groups assembled. In order to create a sense of trust, stories are shared, secrets are told. People you have known only a matter of days are now your bestest friends in your little corner of Japan. Meals are eaten together, social activities are decided as a group, and the bond is strengthened over luggage crisis, extended bus rides, and notes passed during seminars.

Three weeks seems like a long time, but it is over too fast. Soon it is time to say goodbye. You realize, but don't want to accept, that you may never hear from or see these friends again. Emails and phone numbers are exchanged. Invitations are extended, but we are in all likelihood not going to see each other ever again.

One of the final scenes in Lost in Translation shows Bill M. chasing Scarlett J. down a crowded side street then whispering something in her ear. Then he leaves. We never find out what was said. These two characters had explored Tokyo, shared dreams, revealed secrets and he just walks away? Being somewhat of a romantic myself I couldn't believe it would end like this.

But their relationship, just like many forged between the FMFers doesn't translate back in the States. Their relationship was based on their being in Tokyo, together, just like many of ours. I know I will miss my friends and hope that I will hear from them again. But the relationship that was has been Lost in Translation.

Jet Laggin' Part Deux

I cannot sleep!! I guess this is what they call jet lag. I thought I had a tried and true way to avoid jet lag -- Sleep on the plane (by whatever means necessary) and when you wake up, set you watch and mind to the new time and go about your day. My problem is I got sick. Phlemmie sick. (Is that a word?) You know, coughing, no voice, snotty, yucky chest and spent all day yesterday and today sleeping it off. This sucks.

Jet Laggin'

Guess I should have followed Japser's advice and stayed awake when I came home because it is past midnight and I can't sleep. I have a wicked cough and would like to sleep but between the "hack-hack" and mind racing it isn't happening.

So I will write to you. Hmm. OK, I've got it, reflection time. (Oh, goody!)

Why I Miss Japan
1. People are nicer. Trying to switch planes at LAX reminded me that I wasn't in Japan anymore. Other people in line were getting impatient (vs. the patient line waiting in Japan) and the workers had that, "I hate my job and I hate you," look that is supplemented with eye rolls and head-cocked glares. And sighs. I did not miss the sighs.
2. Everything is cleaner. Paper on the floor, wrappers strown, people eating and walking. Why aren't they messy in Japan? I think it's a respect thing and the whole inside/outside persona. There's a name for it. It's in my book.
3. Eye contact. Now I will admit that I used to be one of those, "Hi!" "Hi," Good Morning!" people. Let's refer to it as fake Courtney. I didn't want to say hello but felt pressured to be social and talk to others. No, I'm not saying I'll be rude, but I no longer feel the need to make eye-contact and smile to everyone (really everyone, even scary people) on the street. In Japan, eyes stayed lowered and there is no pressure to make polite small-talk with strangers. I like that. Today on the plane to Tucson, this nice older man sat next to me and usually in fake Courtney mode I would strike up a conversation with him. But today, I put on my headphones, didn't even turn the darn thing on, and put my head back.
4. Food. I didn't realize how much crap I ate. No, that's a lie. I did but I enjoyed it. Right now I am rethinking all the processed cheese, meats, and breads I eat. They served us half-a-hashbrown and sausage on the plane and it didn't even taste good. Yes I ate it -- but I enjoyed the fruit more. (No, I am not feeling well).
5. Heated toliet seats with spray options. Nuff said.
6. Doin' Stuff. I watch a lot of tv - as most of you know. Too much tv. Heck, I'm watchin' E! Daily 10 right now with the sound off. I liked going places and doin' stuff with people and by myself. I think I need to get out more. Walk maybe? See the Grand Canyon or the Monument place? Take up yoga or an exercise class? Now that may be the cough medicine talking but it could happen.
7. Can't think of a 7.
8. Cleanliness. I know this is kinda a repeat but before I was referring to public cleanliness. My house is a wreck right now. Being little miss type A w/OCD tendencies you would think my house would be perfect. But it is a perfect mess. Dog hair, dirty clothes, dirty dishes, dirty, well everyting. Tomorrow, I clean.
9. Hot Springs. Now I didn't get to go to one, but I did see the brochure. Our public bath was ok -- but the thought of soaking in a hot mineral spring right now sounds amazing. My body is sore and bruised. There are no hot springs in Tucson. Hot sand, but it's full of bugs and rattlesnakes.
10. Soup and Sashimi. I heart miso soup and sashimi. Tomorrow I may take a break from cleaning and go to the Japanese restaurant here in Tucson and suck down some soup and have an order of sashimi for dessert. I know it won't be the same but I don't think I can do pizza and cheese dip.

Ok -- that's it for now. As I develop my follow-on plan I will add to my blog. Hopefully you all will keep reading and makin' comments. Will try to sleep now, after another helpin' of cough medicine.

Back Home Again (In Arizona)

Just wanted to let you know that I arrived back in Arizona safely after two of the freakin' longest days of my life, that were all really the same day. (International Date Line reference for you geography people). After hanging out at Narita airport for way too long, we got on the plane to LAX. I managed to sleep on the plane, with a little help from my doctor. We arrived in LA around 11:00 am November 1, after leaving Narita at 5:35 pm on November 1 -- basically traveling back in time.

Thank goodness I had my good buddy Jasper (miss you Jasper-san!) to help get me through Customs and to my next flight. Slept through that flight as well and arrived in Tucson where Mr. Corrigan met this very haggard mess of a girl.

Sipsey is super happy I am home. Francie didn't care, but I got lots of hugs from Haley. Mr. Corrigan loves his new samurai (sp?) sword, Ultraman doll and mask, and floating pen we got at the Chiba City science museum. So far I have slept more, turned down delicious pizza, and massaged out a nasty cramp in my right calf. I am feeling old. And I published most of the 80 comments you had posted. 80!! We are in the lab Monday where we can talk and answer questions.

Tomorrow, laundry and probably more sleep. As I get more pictures from our last nights in Tokyo I will post them. Gotta wait for the other Chib-ites to share first though, I didn't bring my camera with me. Oops.

Back in Tokyo

We are back in Tokyo and back in meetings. Today I attended a two-hour Environment Education presentation that had almost nothing to do with the environment or education and then a two-hour presentation that reviewed Japanese education. During the presentation, I remembered that I forgot to share a cool picture with you. Here it is, it's from the Shellmound museum in Chiba. Any ideas as to what is in the bowl?

Tonight I decided to be brave and went to Shibuyu alone. I am finding that Japan is relatively safe and if I pay attention, I can figure out the streets (that aren't always labeled) and the subway (whose signs are often in Japanese). I wanted to go to Shibuyu to see the big intersection from Tokyo Drift. It is probably rated R and you shouldn't watch it until you are old enough, but if you have already seen it you know what intersection I am talking about. The one with all the people and the dinosaurs? Electronic ones of course. They didn't have the dinosaurs walking across the building tonight but I was impressed just the same. I also saw a rotating parking garage like in Tokyo Drift. It's not that great of movie, but has great shots of Tokyo.



Ok, that's it. We give presentations tomorrow so I need to get my beauty sleep. There are bags under my eyes. Big ones.

Ryokan Stay

Pronounced yo-kan or pronounced that way by me, a ryokan is a tradional Japanese inn. There are mats on the floor, sliding walls, short tables, chairs without legs, and you sleep on the floor. Our ryokan was right next to Narita Temple, which was just incredible. We were treated to a huge feast and karaoke.

I must admit, I didnt' enjoy sleeping on the floor this time. I had roommates so it wasn't a Grudge issue, but an "ouch" issue. My boney hips dug right through that thin mattress. And the room smelled like pickled something. BUT . . . it was a good experience and again was right next to a beautiful temple and park. We got to watch a Buddhist ceremony that included a big drum. (No, I don't know the name.)

A few of us opted for McDonalds that afternoon. I am sorry if you are disappointed that I ate McDonalds in Japan, but I can only eat so much fish and rice. And I still had that squishy rice dough in my tummy. I needed a cheeseburger and a Coca-cola bad.

Finally we loaded the bus and headed back to Tokyo where I was surprised to find that I was given a double room -- two beds, two sets of towels, two sets of shampoo all for me :) And no more sleeping on the floor. Heck, if I wanted to, I could stack the mattresses and sleep five feet in the air if I wanted.

Host Family Stay

The Host Family Stay is one of the highlights of the JFMF experience. Each host city must find 20 families to host an American teacher. Some volunteer, others are volunteered, and each experience is a little different. Fusako and Ryozo (in the picture) were my host parents. The dog isn't theirs, it belonged to the guy taking the picture.

I met Fusako briefly a days before and was excited to meet her husband Ryozo. They live in Chiba City but Ryozo travels to Tokyo everyday, a 90 minute commute that requires riding a bus, taking the train, switching trains, and walking. I know this because their English was really good, especially compared to my Japanese skills.

After picking me up, we drove over to the Chiba Folk Museum located in Chiba Castle. From the observation deck we were able to enjoy the changing autumn leaves, which is something very special in Japan. This was not your typical autumn day though, there was a typhoon coming! I know, a typhoon! Sounds scary right? I didn't think so. It was just a thunderstorm. Now there are some meteorologists out there who will argue with me, but I don't think any meteorologists out there are reading my blog so I will go on record and say that typhoons are NBD.

TMI? My point? We had to find things to do that we inside activities. We also went to the National Museum of Japanese History, which was pretty cool. It covered some of the same history of the Shellmound Museum, but what I enjoyed the most were the little model villages and palaces. I don't have pictures of course because you can't take pictures in a museum, but I was inspired to go home and build little Japanese villages with my legos.



After a trip to the grocery store for sashmi (YUM) and some ramen noodles at the food court we headed home. I presented my family with my thank you gift (gift giving is huge in Japan) and we shared photos of family and vacations. Fusako has traveled to so many places in Asia -- like China, Vietnam, Taiwan -- as well as Hawaii and Paris. Dinner was truly a feast "go-chi-so-sa-ma" and included sashmi, sushi, pickled vegetables, fish jerky stuff, and some squishy stuff. It was good, I just don't know what it's called. The main dish was a beef and vegetable and rice thing (don't know the name) that was cooked on the table. But then -- after it is cooked, you dip it in raw egg before eating it. Dip like you would slather a hot wing in bleu cheese dressing. I know you aren't supposed to eat raw eggs but I do it all the time with cookie dough and you know what? It didn't kill me. And was good.

After a shower and soak in a tradional Japanese bath (details are not necessary) I snuggled into my floor bed. No, they weren't being rude hosts -- they just don't have the traditional box springs and mattess that most people use in the States. There were several layers of mattresses, a soft/furry mattress pad, and a down comforter. It would have been a great night's sleep but of course my over-active imagination got the best of me and scenes from the grudge kept playing in my head. But with my trusty red flashlight in hand, I braved the dark and went to sleep.

The next day we went to a local harvest festival. There were crafts for sale and many mini-concerts. I liked the drums best. We also toured the gardens, which reminded me of Holland (even though I have never been to Holland) and ate some rice dough stuff that I guess is very special and you eat during celebrations. So here it is, the moment of truth. I gagged. I ate it but at one point I gagged. At first I was excited to eat it because I thought it was like a doughnut hole. But it was raw rice dough that has the consistency of chewing gum. I ate one and said I was full.

Our last trip was to a local temple that was kind of out of the way, but Ryozo thought I would really like it, and I did. It wasn't a tourist shrine like most of the places I had gone, but one Japanese families go to for celebrations like the 3-5-7 ceremony for children. We then had cold soba noodles and started home.

Fusako asked me if I wanted to try on her kimono and get my picture taken in her Japanese room. Of course I said yes. It was a bit tricky getting my very average American body into her very small kimono, but with lots of ties and sucking in we made it work. I wouldn't recommend wearing jeans under a kimono though. It really just makes it that much harder.


We then headed back downtown to meet up with the other JFMFers. We got lost and even though Ryozo and Fusako were kind of arguing in Japanese, I was able to figure out what they were saying. Those, "I think it's this way, "No turn here," conversations need no translation.

Thank you Mr. Corrigan!

First of all, thank you Mr. Corrigan for bringing my class to the computer lab today. While you are in the lab, please read through the blog, remembering that the newest entries are first. If you want to start from the beginning, scroll all the way down.

I would love to hear your comments and questions about Japan. How would you feel if you went to school in Japan? Would you enjoy serving lunch to your classmates and be in charge of cleaning the school everyday? Do you think that high school should be required like it is in the United States? Should students have to take exams to test into high school and junior high?

Wow. That's alot of questions. And all about school. Yours don't have to be. As you read, if something surprises you, send me a comment. Please let me know who you are in the post or at least the period. For example: Hey Mrs. Corrigan, it's me E.G. from you 6th period class. Do all students have to wear uniforms in Japan? How do they feel about it?

Ok -- I am off to learn about the environment. I forgot how hard it is to be a student. How do you guys sit still for so long?

Ohji Elementary School

Sorry it has been so long since my last post. We had our home visit Saturday and stayed at a ryokan the next day and this is the first time I have been online. Before I can talk about Saturday and Sunday, let me write a little bit about our visit to the elementary school.

First of all, there is no way I could be an elementary teacher. It doesn't matter if the kids are American, Japanese, or probably any other nationality -- elementary school kids are insane. They were running around, dancing, giggling, playing games, and often without supervision. We started the day with introductions at a morning staff meeting and then were given the opportunity to explore the school on our own. The classrooms at Ohji don't have a traditional door, but have an open wall (where the door would be) that opens to a larger hallway space that is shared by an entire grade. Which means if one class is singing, you can hear it in all the other classes. But the kids didn't seem distracted at all by this. They were distracted by us gauking Americans of course (if that how you spell gauking?) but seemed to benefit from this arrangement.

We were divided up into individual classrooms for lunch and again the students served the lunch to everyone in the individual classrooms and did a school clean-up after. We also participated in games, my class played freeze tag which I am very good at, and my class did a mini-talent show for me displaying traditional Japanese games. They then showered me with their origami projects and sent me on my way.

After lunch we observed an English language class where the students were learning the weather. "It's sunny!" "It's stormy!" It's cloudy!" It was a very Madeline Hunter lesson for those of you M. Hunter followers. It included a game of weater bingo and the telephone game. If a team got the answer correct the team would yell out, "That's right!" But if you didn't get it right, "That's wrong." With hand motions for each. One little boy got it wrong. We both almost cried. So much for discipline with dignity. Well, I guess it's not really discipline. Maybe we see too much "no one's better than everyone else" and "everyone's the best at everything" in American education -- to quote Principal Skinner from The Simpsons.

The day concluded with a very informal meeting with Ohji parents. Our parent lived in New York for four years and just returned to Japan this year. She has two students in the elementary school. She said that her son was very frustrated in his American school as the teacher often had to stop class to deal with student distruptions. Even though he son doesn't enjoy the peer pressure in Japan to sit up straight and raise your right hand (as opposed to the left) he prefers Japanese school (he is a fifth grader) and is attending a cram school after his regular school to prepare for the exams to enter Junior High.

We also had a meeting with two Ohji teachers where the subject of Special Education played a central role. Even though there are students with special needs, they only service the ones they have time to provide services to. (Did that make sense?) At the beginning of the year they make a list of all the kids who need services and then narrow down the list to those students they have time to help. NCLB? Not in Japan.

On this our final night in Chiba as a group, we found a restaurant whose food was so fresh it was still swimming in crates outside. We opted for the scallops, sashmi, and chicken. The scallops were cooked right at our table, which is a little violent I guess watching the once alive little creature die right at your table moments before you stick it in your mouth. Maybe if it had but up more of a fight I would feel bad. But I don't. It was very tasty.

Makiharihongo Junior High School

WOW! What an incredible school. I have so much to say about this experience and so little energy (due to a very long day and a trip to the spa) so I will keep this short for now.

We began the day with a very long (over an hour) bus ride to Makiharihongo Jr. High. I was very nervous because I had to give a speech to the entire student body. Shortly after entering the building and getting the day's itinerary, we were escorted into the school's gymnasium where we were greeted with singing by the entire student body. It was heavenly. (Can I say that word?) All of the students wore matching uniforms and were standing at attention while a student director lead the chorus of over 500 students. I have video, but cannot publish it on my site. I will share it with everyone though privately.

I gave my speech, everyone said it was great -- even though I think I butchered the principal's name. Then there was more singing. What amazed us was that everyone sang. There were no bozos goofing around in the back or refusing to sing. And if their grade wasn't singing a particular song, the other students sat quietly and respectfully. And this is not a music magnet type school. Just an average (or above average) junior high school of grades seven through nine. Japanese students are required to attend elementary school (grades 1-6) and junior high school (7-9) and then take a test that decides what high school you attend. Kind of similar to our college entrance exams. Nearly 100% of the students at this school attend an additional "cram school" or "crammie" to prepare for the high school extrance exam. High school is also three years long (but optional) and if students want to attend college, they once again need to take very stressful exams. Admissions decisions are based almost entirely on these exams.

We took a tour where we saw tons of student work displayed in the halls or on tables throughout the campus. We visited an industrial arts class where the students were making shelves, the choir, a math classroom, the kendo class, a science class where the students were using bunson burners, (no one was goofing around or setting arm hair on fire) and again and again we were shocked to see the students working very independent of the teacher.

When we split up into individual classrooms, my third year students (ninth graders) organized an introduction, question and answer session, a game, and a welcome song. The teacher was there but the students ran the class. NBD you say? There class sizes are about 40 kids and they were directing me (who speaks almost no Japanese) with just a little bit of English. And the singing. I don't have video of the song my 3B class sang to me, but I have to admit I teared up. Imagine having 40 students singing their heart out as a gift for you and only you. I have never seen anything like it.

As a class we ate school lunch together that the students served and cleaned up. They had "clean up time," where they clean the school -- washing walls, cleaning bathrooms, sweeping hallways -- everyday and then a final goodbye. We then toured the school while the students participated in afterschool activities (like calligraphy, kendo, baseball) before a question and answer session with the teachers.

The weird thing is these Hakiharihongo students are just like ours. They told secrets, giggled, acted tough, were shy -- but the expectations and responsibilities were different. During lunch and clean-up time, the teachers were gone. My guess is Japan doesn't have tort liability in the schools like US schools do, but that doesn't mean we can't try something similiar. I am going to "think on it" and would like to make some changes. What do you think?

Shellmound and Museum Day

Today was a very busy day. Have I said that everyday? Well, it's true. After re-drying my jeans very early this morning, we were allowed to dress in casual clothes for a day of site-seeing in Chiba City. The first stop was the Kasori Shellmound Site where archeologists have uncovered shellmounds from the Jomon Age (between 10,000 BC and 500 BC). Shell mounds are exactly what they sound like, mounds and mounds of shells. The guide explained that these mounds are not "garbage pits" but played a role in the Jomon people's ceremonies.

Jomon means "rope pattern" and is taken from the pottery pieces from that time period. Personally I think that the shell mounds are what they seem, mounds of discarded shells and don't read anymore into it. But what do I know? I really enjoyed looking at the different rope designs and would like to maybe do a project in the Transitions class. What do you guys think? Are you up for some arts and crafts?

After a "viking style" lunch (which is just a buffet), we went to the brand new -- like it only opened three days ago) Chiba City Museum of Science. The first thing we did was the planetarium which is housed in this incredible sphere several stories up that is supposed to resemble Jupiter. Those of you who know me well know that plantetariums and me don't mix well. I get dizzy and sick. Mom, how many times did dad have to take me out the of IMAX theaters? So, I leaned back and took a nice 45 minute nap. I know, I know, that's horrible. How rude! But what's ruder, sleeping in a dark room where no one can tell anyway because everyone is facing the ceiling or throwing up in their beautiful new planetarium?

We then had free time to enjoy the museum. Not being a very scientifically minded person (I am not a green) I typically struggle in these museums and the fact that most of the displays were in Japanese made it that much worse. But I managed to find a few things that I could handle. Check out this car! It is see-through so you can see how all the pieces like the steering column and other car stuff work together. Dad, this picture is for you!

The Chiba City Museum of Art is within walking distance to the Science Museum. After learning that one of VanGogh's paintings is almost an exact copy of a piece done by a Japanese artist, we left traditional art behind and explored Japanese pieces from the 1970s. We were told not to worry about what it all means, to just enjoy.

Thank goodness because I have no idea what these are supposed to represent. Most were just pretty and others, well, what is art? Is art art?

Before our host family tea party we had about an hour to visit the Art Museum gift shop (wood blocks for everyone!) and walk over to the Chiba Castle. It is not the original castle, but a smaller version that houses historical documents. It was incredible. The leaves were falling all around and was a very peaceful.

The Tea Party was really the highlight of the entire day. I met my host mother, Fusako. JFMF did an incredible job of placing us with host families. As I looked at each pair I couldn't help but notice how everyone kind of matched. Fusako lives with her husband as her two daughters are both grown. One is married and the other (I believe) is at the university.



She reminded me quite a bit of my mom. Right down to the pastel sweater and pretty necklace. Maybe I am just a bit homesick but the placement seemed perfect. During the reception we learned that Wendy and I had our picture published in the local newspaper in an advertisement for Inage High School (I will include a picture soon). It is us doing calligraphy, which Fusako enjoys and offered to help me with during my stay. I do feel a little used as my picture is helping to advertise the high school, but who cares? I made the paper!

I am sad to report that I have no dinner pictures or stories to share. After a viking lunch I just didn't feel like eating. Well eating dinner. I did purchase some vitamin water and cookies at the local drug store and came home to prepare for my speech tomorrow and write you. Yes, I am giving a speech tomorrow at the Junior High School. I thought I was just addressing the teachers but it turns out I am speaking at an all-school assembly. Ahhh!!! I better go practice my name again. And the principal's name too. And the school's name.

Wish me luck.

Pee Pants?

Before I can even write today's blog I feel the need to address yesterday's blog regarding the squat toilets. Not because I can't get enough of the squat toilets, but due to the number of comments I received.

1. If you get urine on your pants, what should you call it? Urine Trousers? Pee Pants demonstrates alliteration, a common literary device. I was attemptint to reinforce poetric forms.

2. When you squat, you do not get down on your knees. Here's how it works. First straddle the toilet (one foot on each side like in the picture) facing the hood or taller curved part of the device. Then you pull down your drawers to about your knees. Then squat down, like you are talking to someone very short -- like a 2-year old. With the toilet lined up vertically underneath everything falls where it should. Finally, flush.

3. I prefer the Western style toilets as they are easier (just sit) and dont' require your to get so close to something you are trying so hard to get rid of.

4. Stall sizes vary by location. Just like the United States.

Ok -- can we be done with the toilets? Thank you.

High School Visit

In Japan, high school as we know it is not compulsory, or required. After completing elementary school (1-6) and what we would call junior high school (7-9) students are able to leave school. Students who want to remain in school take exams and test into certain high schools. The school we visited today, Inage High School, is an exceptional and somewhat progressive school that is attended by students who have chosen to be there. Therefore they have very few discipline problems and we were surprised to find the students very independent and self-directed.

We were allowed to take pictures at the school, but were asked to not publish pictures of the students on our websites or in articles, so I apologize if the pictures are "boring." But I do have an exciting picture to share.



A squat toilet. And (mom and dad, I am sorry if this embarrasses you) but I used it. Successfully. No pee pants. For those of you who have being dying to know, you straddle (did I spell that right?) the toilet, pull down your drawers, and squat. Make sure you are facing the handle and everything should work the way it is supposed too.

While at the school we were allowed to roam freely and visit classes. In Japan, most students stay in the room all day while the teachers rotate from room to room. Because of this, many students feel very at home in their classroom and treat it as such. There were blankets, pencil cases, lunch boxes, cell phones, translators, charms, shoes, books, everywhere. In most US schools, teachers (including myself) would say, "Put that cell phone away, put that under your desk." But the students didn't seem distracted by all the "stuff." They were focused, working in groups if needed or listening to their teacher. At a question and answer session at the end of the day an American teacher commented on some of the students sleeping in class. (Which never happens in my room - lol.) A Japanese teacher commented that in Japan they do not focus so much on the individual but the group. If a student chooses not to participate, it is their loss. Considering high school is optional, I tend to agree. Japanese culture focuses so much more groups and group norms than the individual -- something I will write more about when I can really think through my words. Also in Japanese culture there is the concept of inside and outside (figuratively speaking). And inside (like inside the classroom) students feel relaxed to have their belonging about and to treat the classroom as their home. But outside the classroom, they conform more to the cultural norms of public spaces.

Something that stuck me was that the students do feel comfortable to leave their "stuff" in unlocked classrooms or just sitting on their desk. I saw cellphones, wallets, pencil cases (I really want a fun pencil case) and other valuables just sitting out where someone could easily just take something. Shoes are left in common areas. Umbrellas in umbrella stands. My students don't like to leave their backpacks on the floor next to their desk for fear someone will reach down and take something out. I hate to generalize after being here only a few days, but the Japanese culture seems to be much more trusting and considerate or each other's property.

At the high school we had the opportunity to participate in a traditional tea ceremony and also practice our calligraphy. Here I am trying to make a bird or sea character. I was not very good. I couldn't get the brush to twirl and dab like the instructor. I think my host family is into calligraphy. Maybe they can give me some pointers. But I didn't get ink on my nice, professional clothes. So I still walked away happy.



For supper tonight I had ramen noodles (not the crummy ones from the microwave) but real ramen in a spicy pork stew and a Baskin Robbins icecream cone. I don't want to hear it -- you go all the way to Japan for Baskin Robbins that you could get here? I got green tea icecream, which is very Japanese, and pumpkin pie. A little Japan/American combo. And yes, it was good.

I am happy to announce that I am caught up. Tomorrow is another full day with a trip to the Kasori Shellmound Museum, the Museum of Science and Museum of Art and a Welcome Tea Party with our host family. We don't stay with our host family until Saturday but it will be nice to meet them face-to-face tomorrow.

Good night :)

Monday, Monday.

Monday was a very full day. A very full, formal day. The day started with a trip to Chiba University where we met the University President, the Dean of the School of Education, and many other professors and administrators. We were treated to beautiful little treats in the shape of seasonal flowers and green tea during our break. It was almost too pretty to eat. More important than the food was the exchange that took place between us and as I suspected, the issues facing educators are very similiar across the globe. They spoke of wanting to foster an attitude among their students that is open to other cultures and felt that the best way to do this was by actually meeting people from diverse cultures. They also expressed a desire (albeit controversial) to add cultural studies to the curriculum that is separate from language studies. There is also some debate in Japan that if too much focus is placed on learning other languages, their own language may suffer. Hmm. Sound familiar?





We then had the opportunity to "speak frankly" with students from the University. A lovely reception was prepared with local treats (made from Chiba peanuts) and we began with introductions. "Watashi wa Arizona no Corrigan des." I had the opportunity to speak with several education majors and share pictures I had on my ipod of Arizona, my family, and Amphi High School. It was a great way to break the ice. The girls I spoke to were getting ready to do their first practicum in the elementary school and were feeling quite anxious. I was able to share my business card with them and hope they will have a chance to check out this blog. Hi Ladies! Send me a comment if you read this.

After Chiba U we had lunch at a nice Italian restaurant (really) and then reported to the Deputy Mayor's office for a very formal welcome and Q & A session. We all received t-shirts of the Chiba City mascot Chihana-chan the lotus blossom fairy. I love her. I may be in love with her. She is that cute. Many cities and products have similiar, Poke-mon type mascots that not all Americans enjoy. I have taken many pictures of these mascots though and was thrilled to receive a shirt. If I could just find a matching key-chain, notebook, and pencil case.


Our final stop was to the Chiba City Board of Education. The board spoke to us about education reform and the many programs they offer in Chiba City. After a Q&A session and an group picture, we viewed a very detailed Power Point presentation. Unfortunately the entire PP was in Japanese, and even though there was a interpreter to translate the speaker's words into English, somewhere towards the beginning of the presention jet-lag, and travel-lag caught up with most of us and I have sadly admit I have no notes to share of the presenation. None. At least I did not fall asleep through. That would have been very rude.

So where do you go after sitting through a 45 minute Power Point in Japanese? A conveyor belt suishi restaurant of course. Plates of sushi, tofu, icecream cones, and other deserts travel along a conveyor belt. Each plate color corresponds to its respective price that was posted on the wall. I decided to stick with only blue plates as my mathematics skills are not that great. Poor Jasper always gets stuck tallying the bill for us. But this time I knew that I owed 1050 yen (5 plates times 210 yen). This is about $10.50 We had a ton of fresh sushi, some made to order, and paid very little for it compared to what we would pay in the U.S. I guess it helps to be surrounded by water. Look at how happy we all our with our plates.

I just realized I forgot to comment on last night's meal. I mentioned it was udon noodles and that they were delicious, but I forgot to mention that they were of almost identical quality to those I had at Yoshimatsu restaurant on Campbell in Tucson. I know I shouldn't be endorsing any particular restaurant but if you would like some authentic Tucson and aren't able to come to Ichihana to dine with me tomorrow evening, check out Yoshimatsu on Campbell.

Leaving Tokyo

I am now a full two days behind in my blog so I will type fast and leave the commentary to a minimum. Nah - what's the fun in that?

On Sunday morning we packed up our bags (there is story here that I will write tonight) and prepared to move to our host city. Our host city is technically Chiba City in the Chiba prefecture, but because there is a convention in Chiba City we are staying at the Goi Grand Hotel in Ichihara, just south of Chiba City. But rather than driving directly to Chiba City along the same route we would travel many times (as it is the way to the airport and the ryokan, our guide Keiko suggested we visit Odaiba (a very popular shopping area) and travel across the Tokyo Bay Bridge. We of course agreed because, well who is going to argue with Keiko? She is wonderful and very patient with us.

Odaiba was very similiar to an upscale shopping mall in the United States. There were American stores, a movie theater, restaurants, and an very cool aracade. The best part was the view it offered of the Tokyo skyline. After spending maybe a little too long shopping we boarded the bus and took the Tokyo Bay Bridge to another little shopping plaza, this time in the middle of Tokyo Bay. The Tokyo Bay Bridge is part tunnel/part bridge. For part of the trip you are actually under Tokyo Bay. Finally the tunnel surfaces at on the man-made island where there is a museum, parking lot, look-our area, and of course shops. The picture you will see here is a picture of an arial view of the bridge. It was very cool. Both of the places seemed to be a hotspot for many Japanese families and tourists as well, which was a nice change after being among so many American and European travelers in Kyoto.

Back on the bus once again, this time bound for Chiba (or technically Ichihara). As we neared the hotel Keiko told us that our luggage would not arrive until tomorrow morning -- around 7 a.m. and asked if this was going to cause a problem for any of us. Well, it did. Knowing that Ichihara was only 1-2 hours from Tokyo, most of us expected our luggage to beat us to the hotel. It had been collected at 10 a.m. that morning as was being taken by truck. Those of you who know me well know that I always come/go prepared. If I am going on a "day trip," I bring a bag. If I am going to be gone overnight, I bring at least 3 pairs of undies per day. I am a planner. This threw me into a panic. All I had with me was my reading materials, my laptop and cords, and my toiletries. No extra clothes, no pjs, not much of anything. After a minor freak-out a a delicious dinner of udon noodles, I was able to purchase some pjs at the D2 (think Ben Franklin). Of course they sold only men's clothes so we had to figure out in centimeters which shorts and t-shirt would fit me. Japanese sizes are much smaller than US sizes -- so I ended up with XL shorts and a t-shirt. The t-shirt was kind of small. But I learned my lesson. Always, always, always bring extra clothes.

Aside from the luggage troubles, I must admit that I had other "issues" that evening. Despite a reputation for being very health conscious, many Japanese people smoke and there are not laws against smoking in public places like there are in the United States. In fact the only request of the hotel was not to smoke in bed. My room was very, very smokey. And I still haven't figured out how to use the phone to call home. And (here's the worse of it) no more heated toilet seat. Just a regular potty. At least it wasn't a squat right?

But the luggage arrived by 7 a.m. the next morning and I was able to quickly iron and dress before heading to Chiba University. The room doesn't smell as bad, but I still can't use the phone. Two out of three ain't bad.

Kyoto

On Saturday we were given a free day and I decided early on that I would go to Kyoto. Once I found out that the train tickets were going to cost about $250 I began to rethink my plan but with my 301 money safely in the bank, Kyoto was a go.

We (Wendy, a reading teacher from Kentucky) and I signed up for a tour/train package through the JFMF desk. The thought of traveling in a big group behind a lady holding a large flower didn't agree with either of us, but the tour company arranged for the tickets and would drive us to a few of the sites we wanted to see. Lose, win, win? We had to leave Tokyo station at 6 a.m. but would arrive in Kyoto around 8 a.m., giving us enough time to grab a few doughnuts at Mister Donut (I had the assortment of doughnut holes and a pastry with a hotdog inside) and meet up with our tour. After being on the train so long we also decided to hit the bathroom before getting on the bus but we horrified to find "squat" toilets in the station. Squat toilets look like a urinal but are on the floor. Somehow you "squat" over them and do your business. I am embarrassed to say Wendy and I both chickened out and ran to the hotel where we were able to find "Western" style toilets. I know I promised to find out how they work but we did not want to mess up and be stuck wearing "pee pants" all day in Kyoto. That would have been way worse than following the lady with the flower. I still have plenty of time left to squat.


Our first stop on the tour was Nijo Castle, home to the shogun back before the capital was moved to Tokyo. The highlight of the tour was the Nightingale floors. These floors were a primitive security system for the castle -- as you walk across the floor, no matter how lightly, it squeaks. And the squeaking kind of sounds like a nightingale. Kind of. (Not really). We also were taken into the shogun's private quarters where we learned about concubines and why the samuri shaven the top part's of their head. What I enjoyed most was just seeing the architecture and detail work that extended from the pine trees to the shingles on the roofs.


After boarding the tour bus we headed to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, a very elaborate shrine in Kyoto. At this point Wendy and I ventured out on our on to enjoy the serenity of the grounds without the direction of the lady with the flower. I am sure we missed out on very valuable information, but we able to actually enjoy the shrine closer to the way people were meant to enjoy it. (And we felt like being rebels).

Our third stop was the one I was looking most forward to, the Golden Pavilion. Again, we ventured away from the group, but as their were so many people it was nearly impossible to hear our guide anyway. The place was packed, but I was able to get some amazing pictures because the shrine sits in the middle of a lake. It was breathtaking. This is one of the reasons why I wanted to go to Kyoto.

Our final stop on the tour was the Kyoto Handicraft Center. Basically, it is the gift shop at the end of the tour. And yes, I bought souvenirs. And no, not just for myself. Actually, very few for myself so far. Maybe it was all the temples and shrines? At this point Wendy and I freed ourselves of the tour stickers that had branded us as tourists and headed out in search of Gion and geishas.

Our journey to the area known as Gion took us past many more temples and shrines. We happened upon Sho-ren-in temple and Choin-in temple where we had the opportunity to observe a Buddhist ceremony. Yes Samantha, I saw monks. Unfortunately, my pictures of Choin-in did not turn out very well as I had my camera on the wrong setting. Hopefully Wendy'es turned out better than mine. (One of the many benefits of traveling with a buddy). Choin-in temple can be seen in the movie (I know, quit referencing R rated movies) Lost in Translation. It is the temple with the seemingly-never ending stone steps. I climbed them -- almost died and was completely in pain the next day, but I climbed them. It was worth it. And then I had an icecream. Vanilla and green tea. Green tea makes it healthy right?

The Choin-in temple is adjacent to Gion. We were so relieved to finally reach our destination so that we could begin our search of the illusive geisha. We ended up on a very touristy stretch and decided to turn down a side street. One of those very Japanese streets with the wooden buildings and sliding windows. We knew that any moment a geisha could pop out on her way to or from an engagement. After several blocks though we began to lose hope And decided just to head to the station and try to catch an earlier train home. But then it happened. Just as we were passing a Western-looking hotel, a geisha stepped out into the street, just a few feet away, and quickfully got into a waiting cab. Check out the pictures!
Satisfied that we had completed our journey, we hailed our own cab (after spying a second geisha in another passing taxi) and asked for Kyoto Station. Just then we saw four geisha outside in the same tourist area we had just passed through, escorting a gentleman. I have a picture from the back window of the cab but it is so horrible, I will spare you.

So we hopped on a bullet train and made it back to Tokyo in time to meet up with other JFMFers who were heading out to Ginza. As you can imagine we were pooped, but it was an incredible day.

Peace Education & Hiroshima

Welcome Back! I realize it has been a few days since my last entry, but I have been on the move. At like 300 mph. Maybe more.

After the trip to the Fish Market on Friday, we attended a Peace Education presentation. There were two presenters, one a teacher from Hiroshima, Tomoko Yanagi, and a Hiroshima survivor, Keijiro Matsushima. I don't have my notes in front of me as my luggage is still enroute to the hotel (which I will save for another entry) but remember fairly clearly their entire presentation. I also reserved a DVD of the presentation which I will be sharing with my classes soon. Tomoko spoke first about her connection to the bombing -- her father was a university student at the time of the bombing -- and how sometimes difficult it is to teach about Hiroshima. She recognized the importance of teaching both sides of an issue and has taken her students to other countries so that they can see and hear other nation's opinions about Japan.

Keijiro recounted the day the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima and the days leading up to the event. He said that "we Japanese" were proud when the attack on Pearl Harbor happened. He said, "We did it!" but didn't realize what the consquences would be. Keijiro relived going to school that morning, described where he sat, and how everyone's location determined how they would fare in the attack. He feels he was very lucky to only have cuts from broken glass. Others, as we know, weren't so lucky and he described the scene after the blast. The heat, the darkness, the silence. He said that they were angry at the United States but after the war were not angry at Americans, largely due to the way they were treated by the American GIs. He said that they did hate the bomb though and continues to speak out against the use of nuclear weapons. After the bombing, the people in Hiroshima did not know that it was a nuclear bomb and many outside the city rushed in to find loved ones - unknowingly exposing themselves to radioactivity.

More important though than the information about the bombing was the message. And surprisingly the message was not anti-nuclear (even though both presenters and the moderator felt strongly against nuclear weapons). The message was one of how to get past something so horrible -- whether Pearl Harbor or Hiroshima. The first step that all speakers (including one from a previously recorded video) was to apologize. They began the presentation by apologizing to us for anything (not just Pearl Harbor or the war) that they as Japanese had done to cause us harm. The words they used were not "I apologize for the bad things Japan has done," or "I apologize on behalf of those people do did this." It was "I apologize for something we (including me as a member of this country) did to you." Very powerful words. \

Many people, especially those with Japanese connections were in tears. A few teachers went up and gave a personal apology as well -- those with connections to the bombing or the war. One teacher's father (or grandfather) was a Pearl Harbor survivor. She thanked the presenters for their apologies and then offered one as well. I could go one as there were so many people with personal connections and seemed to find closure through this act of forgiving and apologizing. I don't have pictures but will have the DVD. If you'd like to see it, let me know.

Fish Market Morning

We went to the Fish Market this morning at 4:30 a.m. I had been warned that it was like the video game Frogger. They were dead on. The boxes of fish are transported my these little motorized mini-trucks and they are quick. And don't really care for tourists. As you can see, the fish are huge. And mostly dead. The big tuna (I think they're tuna) are frozen -- and that's what you see lined up in rows and are moved around by the men with big hooks. I say men because I didn't see any women there with hooks. They hold an auction in a large warehouse onsite. Auctions are great. Don't worry, I didn't buy a big, dead, frozen fish. Thought about it, but they are expensive.





After the auction we went to the market in the same complex where many of those who bought the big, dead fish chop them up and sell them -- along with other sea things like clams, prawns, octopus, and what I think were snakes. Water snakes. Enjoy the pictures

Comments Answered & My 48 Hour Reflection

Answers to your questions:

1. I did not see any monks at the temple. Sorry Sam.
2. No, I have not seen any robots except for drawings. And I would know if I saw one.
3. San Francisco was overcast and cold. I did not see the bridge or the prison.
4. Japanese TV is not as fun as I expected. I mostly watch CNNJ which is usually in English, but sometimes Spanish. There are a few fun infommercials.
5. The toilets can be dangerous as extended use of the spray function can result in a low level burn. We are encouraged to use sparingly.
6. No, I am not a Fulbrighter. I am a participant in the Japan Fulbright Memorial Fund Teacher Program that was created as a "thank you" to the United States for the Fulbright Program that gave many Japanese the opportunity to study in the United States.

My Reflection:

After little more than 48 hours in Japan I have learned a few things. Tokyo is not noisy. At all. Even Shinjuku station with all the people and shops and trains was pretty quiet. Cars are not allowed to honk their horns, people aren't on the cell phones talking, radios aren't blasting. It is wonderful.

When speaking about their culture, I have noticed that most Japanese say "We Japanese feel" rather than "I feel." They seem to be more focused on the whole than the individual. What this means, I am not sure. Just an observation.

Gender equality or inequality if you will is more of an issue here than in the United States. Way more. It's not that women are considered second-class citizens, but there is clearly a divide. The Representatives addressed this today, but it seems that the resolution of this issue is still in its early stages. Very early stages. Some of the things said today, if said in the United States, would have resulted in a mass walk-out of the females in the room. Or at least a verbal conflict. "We teachers" remained respectful but many were clearly surprised by some of the comments.

JFMF Teacher Program is really about anti-bullying. We were brought over to Japan by the Japanese Government so that we would know Japan in person. (I am not expressing this clearly I know). Many anti-bullying programs focus on making connections as it is hard to hate someone whose story you know. I think that's why we are here -- to make connections.

A reflection on a personal note. One of the major problems Japan is facing deals with its aging population. Twenty percent of Japan's population is over 65. By 2045 over 40% will be. The United States is also dealing with the issue (I hate to use that word) of how to care for aging parents and grandparents. My parents are facing this now with my grandmother who is 90. One idea shared today was to use robots to care for the elderly. Robots. (I swear I am not, not making this up). Can you imagine a robot taking care of your grandma? Maybe they were kidding. It just seemed like a bad tv-sitcom to me. Evelyn and the Robot. That I would watch.

I am off to bed. We are going to the fist market at 4:30 and I need to sleep.

Thank you for reading.

Day Two: A Quick Summary

I don't have many pictures from today, and the few I have I am not ready to post but wanted to share with you my day. Today we met many very important people in Japanese politics and economics. This morning we met Tsutomu Kimura, the President of the National Institution for Academic Degrees. He spoke with us about the state of education in Japan, specifically focusing on the challenges they are facing. I was surprised to learn that their issues are strikingly similiar to ours. Bullying, truancy, students dropping out after 9th grade.

Our second speaker Takahiro Miyao gave a very interesting presentation on Japan's economy. Economics interesting? I think so, especially when you are using Big Mac Economics. Big Mac -- like McDonalds. Really. Again, I could not make this up.

In the afternoon we were honored to have Hiroya Ichikawa, a professor from Sophia University, moderate a discussion from two members of Japan's lower house Yuji Tsushima and Dr. Kuniko Inoguchi. The representatives (similar to our U.S. Representatives) spoke and answered questions regarding challenges Japan is facing in the global economy, natural resources, and gender equality.

After the presentations we decided we needed to get out and try the subway. We went to Shinjuku Station (which is completely insane - I couldn't even take picures and am still processing everything I saw so be patient, I will share soon) and made our way to the the Park Hyatt. How do you know that name? It is the hotel in the Bill Murray classic Lost in Translation. I love Bill Murray too. We made our way to the 52nd floor and were able to look out over the Tokyo skyline. Just like Bill and Scarlett Johansson. I would recommend it, but it is rated R. So when you are old enough, go see it and you will know what I am talking about.

Alright -- that's my quick summary. Thanks for reading :)

Kyogen & Karaoke

After our trip to Asakusa, we had the opportunity to view a form of traditional Japanese theater, Kyogen. It was presented by Don Kenny who has modified the art for English speaking audiences. The performance is always a comedy, but with few props and much voice inflection. If you are able to find a Don Kenny performance online (maybe YouTube?) let me know. The only props used are a small fan and sometimes a mask to create a character that is non-human or ugly. Really. I couldn't make that up. The five masks he brought for display were a demon, a god, an ugly young girl (I know it's wrong but I am just sharing what I learned), an angry old woman (I know, I know), and an animal. The mask I am showing is the animal mask. It was a very unique performance that requires great physical control of both body movements and voice. Maybe we could put something similar together for the Freshman Teams? Just a thought.


As promised, here is my karaoke experience. First let me say I just learned how to spell karaoke and if there are misspellings on previous pages, I am sorry. After shopping around, we found a karaoke place called the Big Echo not far from Tokyo Tower. They charged roughly $10 per hour per person. I think I need to open one in Tucson because -- wow -- you could make a pretty decent profit with a microphone and some background music. Anyway. Karaoke in Japan is different than in the US as you go into a small room with your group and sing with or for them. Not in front of strangers as we usually do in the United States. After searching through a huge book that was almost entirely in Japanese, we found some Madonna, Mr. Big, Crash Test Dumbies, Bon Jovi, and Billy Joel. Even better than my singing (I love early Madonna) were the videos that they played behind the words on the screen. During Michael Jackson's "Beat It" was a young Japanese girl dancing. Why is that funny? Because for several minutes we thought it was Michael. Sorry Michael.